An Unexpected Grace in Brugge
Here I am, a tourist in Brugge – the Venice of Belgium – and it is indeed picturesque. Canals wind through centuries-old buildings beneath pink clouds and blue sky. I feel like I’ve stepped into a Vermeer painting.
I arrived a day early to explore before the Piccolo Weekend, which will be led by the fantastic teacher and performer Peter Verhoyen and his gifted students. Armed with a rough map of the highlights – Market Square, important buildings and churches, City Hall (suddenly I was in a Shakespeare film set !) – I set off to wander.
As I explored the main square, I noticed people gathering at a corner. Curious, I followed them inside and found myself in a brilliantly colorful Basilica. Moments later, an announcement rang out in several languages: they would be performing the “Veneration of the Holy Blood,” a ceremony involving a relic from the blood of Jesus.
Now, I gave up church as a child. I tried a few churches again as a teenager, but it simply wasn’t for me. So imagine my surprise when, after passing by the relic – which looked rather creepy and emitted an energy like static electricity – I sat down and found my eyes filling with tears!
(The only other time when, (what I can only explain as tears of joy,) run down my cheeks, is when playing Satsang music, music for a sacred space.)
I sat there in a kind of bliss. Not contemplation exactly, since I wasn’t contemplating anything. At one point however, thought did come back and I wondered if I should atone for my sins. After all, I was in a church sitting next to a confessional. I couldn’t find anything serious to atone for – though I’ve certainly not led a blameless life, especially by church standards. So, I let that thought go and simply bathed in the delicious atmosphere.
Back at my lodgings, curiosity got the better of me. I had to know more about this Basilica.
According to in the 13th century crusaders raided and looted Constantinople (Istanbul), and many relics made their way to Western Europe! Even more intriguing: in 2025, this church has been designated a Jubilee Church. That means you don’t have to go to Rome for plenary indulgence – you can pop into one of four designated Jubilee Churches. (Well, it’s slightly more complicated than that.)
Just what is a plenary indulgence? According to the Church, it requires being sincerely repentant, free from attachment to sin, moved by charity, purified by Confession, refreshed by Holy Communion, and praying for the Pope’s intentions. Then “from the treasury of the Church” you receive “remission and forgiveness of all your sins.”
I don’t meet many of those qualifications, but free from attachment to sin appeals to me.
The Jubilee indulgence can be obtained by “making a pious pilgrimage to a jubilee site” and participating in prescribed liturgies and devotions. Or by “piously visiting, individually or in groups, a jubilee site and remaining for an appropriate time in Eucharistic adoration and meditation.” That’s me!
I was one of the few who stayed in meditation – simply because it felt so good. They played recorded music from a male choir, which was lovely. I can only imagine what a live choir might have been like, especially in centuries past when music wasn’t as readily available as it is now.
Photography and videos were strictly forbidden in the veneration area. One man had the job of ensuring we all stood in single file, removed our hats, and absolutely DID NOT TAKE PHOTOS OR VIDEOS. And honestly? You can’t photograph an energetic event. You’ll probably miss the entire underlying experience by looking through a lens instead of just being there. So, I’m grateful someone was doing that unenviable job, or I too might have been trying to capture it on my phone.
That said, just before the veneration was announced, I did take a few quick photos and a short video in the permitted area of the church, . (Click on the photo below to see the video.)
So that was my religious experience at the Basilica of Holy Blood in Brugge.
Now on to more worldly pursuits – that of striving for perfection on that most difficult of instruments, the piccolo !
With grace,
Nandin
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